May 8 185 miles St. Louis to Lebanon, MO
Topography really changes once you cross the Mississippi. Illinois was all about flat fertile farmland that stretched out wide. This side of the river in Missouri is all about hills, rocks and trees. It's the start of the Ozarks! Route 66 markers have been well placed so far, and where they were brown colored in Illinois they are blue here - so we've adapting to looking for a new color. Most of the travel has been pretty easy. The interstate follows the same basic route as old 66. Much of the day it's felt like we've simply been running on frontage roads that cross back and forth over the interstate. Covered some extra miles today compared to previous days. We were starting to get a bit tired of driving by the time we pulled into the historic Munger Moss Motel for the night - celebrating 75 years on Route 66. But I'm getting a bit ahead of our travels.
Route 66 running alongside the interstate. Lots of sections like this today.
The Munger Motel - lovingly maintained by Ramona - the 84 year old proprietor
Let's back up to the start of the day. Leaving St. Louis we stopped and got a couple Kolache's which apparently are a specialty item in the area. They have a Central European background. Basically it's round bread dough that would fit in the palm of your hand. They either come filled with savory meats for lunch or topped with sweet fruit for breakfast. Once and done was fine for us - rather have a good cinnamon bun. So off we went headed for Cuba. But a quick stop along the way in Bourbon for a photo op. We saw a number of signs today that made us go - Huhhhh..????
If their job is to protect and serve - I might be interested!!
We passed by butt opted not to stop.
Cuba is another town embracing Route 66 tourists. They've done a great job promoting themselves as the "the town with all the murals". For a small town they do a good job displaying their history on 14 panoramas. Old business like barrel making, and apple groves are on display. Historical visits by Bette Davis, Amelia Earhart and Harry Truman. Civil war scenes describing several local battles. A tribute mural to local fallen WWII service members. They even have a nice color handout describing each one with a map.



While we were looking at the murals a local shop keeper came out and told us about a monument to the Osage Indians just outside of town. Very interesting history of tribal issues that actually helped create the FBI. Discussed on one of the plaques but a great book to get the full story is David Grann's "The Killers of the Flower Moon". One of the many books we read while on the loop.
Still in Cuba - driving around and came across the Catholic Church made of the roughest stones. Just looked like they piled up all the stones they could gather and then cemented them together. Quite beautiful for such a rustic material.
Out of Cuba and on the road for a variety of additional stops. Next was a detour to a town that no longer exists called Arlington. It was the home to the Stony Dell Resort which was built on the grounds of a camping area used during the Cherokee Trail of Tears. During its heyday there was a 100' pool fed by artesian water, cabins, restaurant, stores, etc. Mae West was a visitor. Now all that remains are ruins of an old store, a few cabins ready to fall in and some stonework visible from a completely unused section of the old route 66.
Back on the road and we soon were at Devils Elbow where a scenic bridge is still used to cross the Big Piney River. There is a rare section of "new" Route 66 that is 4 lanes and bypasses the bridge and was used until the mid 80's. The 4 lane was built to make truck passage easier for the long tall grades going through this section of the Ozarks on the original route. 4-wheelers seemed to be the transportation mode for the locals on this section of road.

The only section of Route 66 that was 4 lanes.
We follow a 4-wheeler to the turnoff for Devils Elbow bridge
Devils Elbow Bridge
One last stop before heading to Lebanon for the night, was an original bridge dating back to 1923 that crosses the Gasconade River. It's no longer in use but is still a visually fascinating bridge to walk over. There is an ongoing effort for its restoration. Hopefully they can find the funds to save it as it's in a fairly rough state of repair.
New hiway bridges overshadow the route 66 bridge
Beautiful patina showing many layers of varied paint colors over the years
And so here we are finally in Lebanon at the historic Munger Moss Motel. A throwback to the days of road travel on Route 66 . Sort of retro. Definitely gives the feeling of a step back in time to late 40's early 50's with the baby blue and white tiling in the bathroom. Martha has done a great job finding us a combination of different accommodations. Some unique ones where she was able - others routine brand names out of necessity, but it's been fun mixing them up. The Chicago Athletic Club Hotel had newly decorated rooms styled with a 30's hotel feel, while The Statehouse Inn in Springfield was a 60's hotel that has been fully remodeled to a 60's post modern feel. More interesting venues await!!
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